Dinan drive along the Rance River Valley: St. Suriac, July 16

I stayed home today until 2:30pm. Once I'd talked with my contact, I headed out on the driving tour of the towns around the Rance River. I swear, I cannot make the road numbers on the map match what is on the roundabout signs. Even the Garmen gets confused at times, but if I follow it long enough, I get there. But, at times, the Garmin can't find a village or town I type in, so, I went with the Green Guide and followed as best I could.

I missed some turns, but that is normal. But, I found my way to St. Suriac, which was an old granite fishing village. It's small and lovely, and I was lucky to see the beach at low tide. I decided I had to paint it. Just 6x8" on a linen panel, but it's my favorite painting that I've done so far, informed by the 9x12" painting done at low tide in Cancale. The scene had different colors, it was a sunny afternnon, and the beach was filled with sunbathers and kids.

There was a young boy on the beach, dressed in black beach duds and carrying an orange bucket. He was busy for a very long time going between patches of seaweed, searching for something. When he found it, it went into his bucket. There were also a few beached boats, one with a jewel-like green bottom. Other than the two strong colors, the scene was devoid of strong color. Everything was subtle nuances of tone.

Dinan: Presentation of Paintings & Cancale, July 15

July 25, 2105 - 18hr00!

My presentation will be early since a couple of the organizers are going on vacation the last week of July. They will come in a group, look, ask me questions, I suppose, and choose a painting.

I feel a bit nervous. Still I will have a tour of Brittany in the studio when they come, and another five days worth of paintings after they choose.

Attached is a photo from Cancale, where Sargent painted his "Oyster Gathers". I found low tide here different from that at Roscoff, but no less interesting.

I think I could paint low tide and landlocked boats for a very long time. The wet sand, or is it mud, or sludge, reflects each and every nuance of light, changing every few seconds, it seems. Lovely, maddening, delicate, difficult. But I think it's one of the most interesting and challenging subjects that I've painted. How to translate it sensitively? Yet, it's in this subject that I seem to have found myself.

Funny, one of the guys at the Highlands Nature Sanctuary Residency said, "You really look at things, you notice things." I thought that was a strange comment, but he's right. And it gets me in trouble at times, seeing so much, too much.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, painting near finish

I have to say, I was in a high profile spot, and had done a bit of walking, at first in a steady, soft rain. I tried to figure a way of painting while it was raining, all the values were softened and the atmosphere added to the mystery of the site. But, the spot I wanted to paint from was pretty near a well traveled road, and I would have blocked the footpath.

When I got to the second set of stones, the stones were larger. I read that Neolithic man had actually broken some of the stones, why??? I walked all around the perimeter of the 950 stones and said to myself, "you have to paint these." After all, we were having a dialogue.

The fallen stones were so huge, that I was reminded of beached whales. People are prevented from walking among the stones because the death of the plants exposes the soil, the soil erodes and exposes the base of the stones. Then, there is danger that the stones will topple over. Can't imagine what that sounds and feels like.

With a guide, you can get access, or if you go between October and April some of the gates are open and you can walk in and on the little footpaths.

The rain had stopped and I set up and painted relatively uninterrupted. Near the end of the painting a nice man asked if he could take photos of me. I said yes if he'd take some with my camera.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, painting the Keraleon Group

From Carnac, there are three massive groups of stones, arranged in rows. I got quite excited, as I always do, by the large stones. Here's the start of my 9x12" painting.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, les Menhirs

One hundred years before Stonehenge, these prehistoric megaliths were the first architectural project in Western Europe. I wonder, who was in charge, and how did they 'inspire' these early people to move all these stones? And of course, what was their purpose?

Rance River Valley #2, July 16th, Thursday

I am not quite sure what could be more creepy than walking along a deserted stretch of beach, by myself, with the sun low in the sky and coming to this. I finally found the boat cemetery, a collection of mostly wooden boats, rotting away in the water in various stages of decay, with a backdrop of brand spanking new boats. I love boats, next to being a monk, I am sure I was a sailor at some point, but honestly, this creeped me out. Maybe it was just the memory of "Jaws", or the fact that I was all alone in this place, or possibly, the thought of the dead body that had been found in the creek during the forest residency.

I would like to go back here and paint all day, but time will tell.

Dinan to Dinard: Le 14 Juillet

Finally made it to Dinard. Attempted two paintings of these tents! Paying for parking on the street had me leaving before I finished either.

Dinan to Roscoff: July 11& 12

I lost two days of photos by leaving my camera at home. I plan to go back to Roscoff before I turn in my car on the 24th. Could kick myself.

I checked into a 29€ room with just a sink and douche. Worked for me. It was clean, douche worked, great soap and towels. What more could I want?

A camera. Room #29 L'Hotel d'Angleterre.

Dinan: Le Port last night, July 13

Fireworks last night, and mobs of people.

All classical music accompanied an amazing 45 minutes of feu d'artifice!!!!

Gobs and gobs of people.

Dinan to Josselin, July 11: the newer side of the Château

Need I say more?

Dinan to Josselin: July 11, Château de Rohan

Of course, the 1538 house is not the oldest thing in town. The Château de Rohan in all it's present day splendor, has it's beginning as a 14c fort, with four round towers, two of which form the medieval side of the château. A third tower is on site but the walls were dismantled during the French Revolution. The fourth tower no longer exists, but a 100 year old massive juniper (?) tree takes it's place and is every bit as large as the tower would have been.

BTW, during the Revolution the freestanding tower was used as a prison, housing 250 prisoners.

Forgive any facts here that might not be totally accurate. Do the research if you are interested.

Dinan to Josselin: July 11, this old house

The oldest recorded house still standing in the village is a delight to behold. It's a half-timbered structure with a roof of slate featuring a beautiful example of "pan-de-bois". The carvings are of a chase scene with animals and mythical creatures overhead. Flanking the door are carvings, most likely of the first owners of the house, and the year 1538 carved over the man's head.

The house is still lived in. I've always wondered what it must be like to live alongside history of this kind, to be it's caretaker for a while.

Saturday, July 11: Drive to Josselin, or how I got into the Tour de France!

Well, it started out calm. Then on my way to Josselin, on the D766, I began to comprehend a sign I passed saying the Tour de France would be traveling on this road at a certain time.

I realized this when I passed a hay roll hoisted in the air by a tractor, with a dummy on a bicycle on top!

Then I noticed all the cars and people on the sides of the road. I had to stop for a photo of that dummy on a bike. I asked what time the cyclists were coming by. Not for 2-1/2 hours. I thought about staying. I saw the police put up large plastic barriers just after I returned to my car. I thought, should I stay? But in the end, I decided to get on with my day.

The farther forward that I went on the D766, the thicker the crowds got. I just kept driving. BTW, Europcar rented me the official car of the tour! People kind of looked at me oddly, I was the only car on the road. But, no one stopped me.

Not until I was almost in a town. Every time the Garmen tried to reroute me, the road was barricated, so I just continued.

Finally, a gendarme stopped me. He asked where I was going. "Josselin," was my reply. He pointed to a barricaded road filled with people. He told them to move, and to open the gate. He pointed, and said go left, left again and follow signs for Vannes!

I was very greatful, I might have been run down by the pack, causing an international incident. But really, what are the odds of me finding the one road in France that The Tour was traveling on today, at that time?

Friday, July 10: Dinan to Cap Fréhel

Starting my day with a drive to a peninsula on the Emerald Coast. Everyone mentioned Cap Fréhel, so it is today's first stop. The sun is brilliant again, but it's chilly. What it will be when I get to the coast???

Last night, I had to wash my lightweight fleece (taken on the Camino) because it, and my purse, were all covered in green paint. It's still a bit wet this AM, so here's hoping that it dries before I get there.

Oops, Madame Béatrice!

A one woman band. Amazing!

Dinan, July 8th, Madame Béatrice!

Elle est extraordinaire!

Dinan: Thursday, July 9- the car!

Oh boy! The thought of the car kept me awake. To start. When I want to try to contact Martin, I have to walk to the other side of the Rance River, then, I have to wait until I think he's available. And while I'm using the WIFI at the Mercure - was the Best Western until 10 months ago - I have to order something.

Now, if it's late, people are back in their rooms, and the signal isn't good. So, I write to you, and try to send it. Such is the state of WIFI in France, America. I'm sure it's good for those that live or work here, right?

Now, today I went to the Thursday marché for lettuce, tomatoes and apricots. Not much, but all I had time for. It's a 40 minute walk to the Europcar place.

Did I mention that I walked 8 miles two days ago, and did two paintings. Yesterday, about 5 miles. Today, already 4 miles.

So driving seems like a cop out of sorts. Still, I can't walk to Roscoff or Carnac without a lot of time. So, I got the car. A standard shift. Martin advised I take a few short trips. I felt if I got in, drove away and could make my way back to my little house, that would be something. And it was. I got directions on how to go, on a map from the lady renting the car. I was fine except just as I was supposed to get to my turn to go under the aquaduct, the road was closed. I made a turn that I shouldn't have, and had to turn around, then went back and somehow found the detour signs, right through the streets I walked on yesterday! So glad that I've been walking around the old city everyday.

I got home, unpacked my vegetables, packed the oils in the car and headed in the direction of the small towns along the Rance, direction, St. Malo. I decided after a bit, to head back to Léhon and paint at the abbey. The sun was brilliant, but a cool wind had me in my jacket all day. Cooler in the wind, even more so in the shade with wind. I decided to paint the gardens in the cloisters, as the abbey grounds had just closed.

Not only a 8x6" struggle with paint and brush, but the people were all over me a few at a time. I must admit, it was not beneficial to my painting, or my concentration. They came a couple, or a few at a time, and no sooner did they leave, the next 2 to 4 would arrive.

After 1-1/2 hrs., I started to just hand them my brushes. Not many were polite about disturbing me, getting just behind me to take a photo, or just stand to see what I would do next. They never ever ask if they can take a photo of me or my work.

Before I got really irritated, I asked a woman who had just taken my photo to take one of me.

I bought a ticket for €4, and toured the museum, and then just outside the door was a great scene with apple trees in front of abbey buildings, contre jour.

I got up close and personal with the scene I'd painted the day that I walked to Léhon. The wildflower section near the ruins was stunning. I spent quite a long time with it.

Then, the return drive. Gosh, Léhon really is very close. I stopped at the parking for the castle, climbed the steps and there was the TI. I thought I was in Léhon, but it was Dinan!

The young woman that helped me with the car, told me on a map how to get back home. Seems the detour I took this morning is just for residents. My way was much longer involving rush hour traffic and missed roads, but I made it!

Dinan, July 8, Wednesday - waiting for the harp concert

Two painting today! Interesting that my 12x9" morning painting window went from sun to shade; and my afternoon 6x6" went from grey skies that looked like threat of rain to glorious sun, just in time to have dinner before the outdoor opening to the 4-day Celtic Harp Festival.

My post from July 7th didn't go through, so cut one of the photos. Hope this makes it.

Léhon Abbaye: relic

Eh voila! Whose thigh bone it is ????

Léhon Abbaye: tombs con't.

Her effigy was unique because the body was in low relief, while the head was in high relief.

I know, I know, and you know, that I couldn't let you get away without sharing my interest in the religious aspect, but, this is also art of the times.

I had to draw her in my book, twice.