July 21, Roscoff: full sun!

It was a fantastic day to paint. The tide was in so I tried painting this in the AM. I worked too long, and finally packed it in and had some lunch.

I attached a photo of my second painting, 10x8" on linen,  at low tide.

Artists were on the quai that afternoon. One at the bench next to me came over to ask if I was a painter, too. He wanted to know if I was watercolor, and seemed relieved when I said no. He made his living selling right there and then, and was good at engaging the people walking up and down the quai.

I took lots of photos and took time to make pen and ink drawings. Then had to say goodbye to this lovely place.

July 20 and 21st: Roscoff revisited

It was raining when I arrived, and continued all evening. But around 10pm, it had stopped, and I was hopeful for good weather the next day. The photos are low tide and rain. And some of the seaweed that makes low tide here so very interesting.

July 20, Calvary circuit #7: great concept and bones

The Green Guide alerted me to the fact that there was something in this church that I just couldn't miss. Two devils writing in Holy water!!!! I wanted to put some water from my bottle in there to see what it looked like, but of course, I didn't. I did smile at the concept. The devil is in the details, right?

And outside was a large osuari, and the only bones I saw. I was happy, and made drawings of both of these things.

Rain and fog, lost my road, evening coming on, so I headed for Roscoff.

July 20, Calvary circuit #6: 3rd church

Moss makes everything better.

July 20, calvary circuit #5: 3rd stop

Here's the third calvary. And the lovely church with carved rood beam. The church was really fantastic.

Calvary Circuit #4: Breton detail carving

July 20, Calvary circuit #3

Yes, yes and yes! Gorgeous carving and paint. And then lots of Breton carvings filling every nook and cranny. I could have spent days here just drawing.

July 20, Calvary circuit: Fantastic porch!

Yes, the calvary at my second stop didn't speak to me. But, the porch of the church was amazing. So much original paint. And every bit of the porch was carved. The second photo is an interpretation of the "birth of Eve".

July 20, 1st and 2nd Calavary

The second Calvary is one of, or is the biggest in Brittany, with over 200 carved figures, but I like the first one best.

St-Thégonnec #5: money box

Here's one thing that went unnoticed by all that entered, this grand old money box. Wow! So cool. I would love to have it. Wracked with age, strapped down tight with iron. No one is going to get this box.

St-Thégonnec #4: the sepulchre

Life sized wood carvings, expressive faces and hands, designed to give you the feeling of being part of this moment in time. I thought of Rodin's 'Burgers of Calais'.

I took the time to make a drawing of one of the angels sitting on my side of the scene, but not visible in this photo. He was holding the instruments of torture, the nails and the crown of thorns. I've never seen anything quite like this, but it must be a Breton thing, as there was one at the next stop, as well.

St-Thégonnec #3a: interesting figures

Yes, all about Christ, but isn't it wonderful when the sculptor has some fun within the realm of his subject?! If you can zoom in on the photos, see the man with his tongue stuck out, and the two guys roped together with Christ with their hands up to their ears. Great gestures, which serve to enliven the entire work.

Notice also, the cod pieces on the men. These sculptures were carved in the 1500's when a cod piece was a fashionable statement. So here's the sculptor showing us his own epoque more than 1500 years after the actual events. I love this stuff! And who invented the cod piece anyway?

St-Thégonnec #3, July 20

Scenes from the life of Christ on the Calvarie. Here he is with his Mother and followers who mourning his death.

The Calvary itself is huge, starting with a large support base, then several layers filled with carved scenes composed of many figures. It continues up into space with the crucifixion at the top. Very hard to photograph surrounded by a light background.

July 20 continued: St-Thégonnec

St-Thégonnec is depicted on the calvary as a bishop with his big hat, crook and at his feet, his attribute, a bit like Lord Ganesh and his rat!

The Saint's emblem, a wolf pulling his cart. Apparently the man had a donkey with that cart, a wolf ate the donkey, and 'St-T' harnessed the wolf to the cart to do the job. Just one way to become a saint. He is carved into the base of the calvary to commemorate his miraculous accomplishment.

Dinan to Les Enclos Parroissaux, July 20, Monday

I was inspired by a book at the tourist board to find some of these parish closes, osuaris, and 'calvaries'. Mostly I wanted to find the imagery in stone representing death and devils. I find no one has handed down such imagative depictions of these topics as the medieval artists.

The closes I headed for were in the Département de Finistère. They exist in more places than I was heading, but I found a circuit drive in the Green Guide, and it was near Morlaix, on the way to St-Pol de Léon and Roscoff. So, off I went.

The further west I went, the worse the weather became. And, at the first stop, there was a steady rain falling. So, I went into the church first. Whew! Ornate carving everywhere, and painted in pastle colors with gold leaf. This was l'Église de St-Thégonnec.

I will say, I appreciate the magnificent work, but it didn't excite me.

July 22, Wednesday, catching up

I had 2 days, one night away, and a harrowing drive home last night. I left Roscoff for home, stopped at St-Pol de Léon, just 7 minutes from Roscoff to see the cathedral, then back on the road in 30 minutes.

Things were rolling along and my expected arrival time was 9 or 9:30pm. But, halfway down the N12, all traffic came to a halt, everyone being sent off the motorway. CRAP! No matter where I went, the Garmin tried to get me back on that same blocked exit.

Finally, I worked out how to get home, and only added 2 hours to my normal drive. I felt I was finished driving in France. Tomorrow, I give back my little Skoda. It's been a wonderful car, full of zip. Would love to have one, and really enjoyed driving the stick again!!!

The photo is from my sketcbook/journal, and this morning's coffee.

July 20, Circuit of Parish Closes, et revenir á Roscoff, back in Finistere!

RAIN, RAIN RAIN!

Maybe I picked the wrong day to return. I didn't mind seeing the mysteries of the parish closes, but the fog, dimming light, and not being able to find the correct road had me heading for Roscoff.

Someone was already in my €29 chambre, so I am paying €40 for a little bigger room, grand lit and less stairs. DRATS!

BUT, my main complaint, I can't buy the 51 pastis glass.

July 19, Le Port de Dinan: Joutes Nautique #2

Some of the teams were dressed nicely, like the men in the first picture. But, some teams got creative. The team from Lavallay (just across the bridge), were dressed like beauty queens. This red head really rocked the look and mannerisms all day long. The entire team were fantastic, but this one definitely had "it"!

July 19, Le Port de Dinan: Fantastic Day!

Yep, today was just a fun day. I had a visit last night from two of my contacts. They mentioned that there would be a "big goings on" on the Rance today. I decided last night that I would stay here all day. I did just that, but I didn't know what was in store for me.

The event was scheduled from 9am - 7pm. The 13èmes JOUTES NAUTIQUES. Yep, that's right. It's like jousting on water. Your steed is a wooden boat with a team of 6 rowers, a captain controlling the rudder while yelling "row, row, row", and the jouter (?), standing on a raised platform at the back of the boat. So much easier to show a photo.

Dinan: à côté de ma maison, Saturday, July 18

Just across the road is an, hum, auberge(?) for those who are walking, kayaking, rafting along the Rance River. It's filled with lots of colorful umbrellas, one might almost think that one was at the beach or in America. At times this restaurant/hotel has been very animated with people and children, but, it's also been really quiet.

Today, frustrated after working on a 6x8" painting - for hours - along The Rance River Valley Circuit drive, and returning home before the museum lady moves her car from my drive, I decided to just park across the street in this establishment. So I was committed to order something.

It was 4:20pm, so I had something to eat: steak, frites and salad, and cidre. Then I decided to really drown my mood, and have ice cream.

Let me say, the ice cream is something to write home about. I ordered one of their concoctions of two flavors, pistachio (with toasted California pistachios), and cherry. It came with a cherry flavored macaron, and 4 or 5 mountains of chantilly, whipped cream.

I hardly ever eat whipped cream, but it was a favorite of my sister. When she was on chemo, sometimes we would go out, and she'd order just a bowl of whipped cream. But, oh the chantilly here in France is so creamy! Edie Dean, you would love it. I ate maybe two mountains of it, covered in toasted almonds, and three boules du glaces! Ugh!

How will I get across the street? I hope the late in the day café will help me. Drugged on cidre et sucre!