Camino Day 4: 9:51 pm

Here I am, zipped inside my sleeping bag, and locked inside what's left of a 1000 year old monastery and writing to you. (DAY 4)

Day 3: Two shattered pilgrims

On the road from Roncevalles to Zubiri. Monica stopped for blister prevention. Vincente says his legs are broken. He's carrying too much weight in food he bought?  Right now, I am just sitting and enjoying the breeze.

Reed pen, Chinese brush and Ink drawings from my sketchbook.

First a drawing of our laundry while my companions slept

And next the 1000 year old monastary where we stayed last night. I STOPPED TO DRAW AND WE STAYED THE NIGHT.

Day 3 Camino: laundry

We are in a Pension, a private place where we have our own room and bathroom. It took a lot of negotiation to get three of us in this room. From now on, I told Monica and Vincente that they needed to say they are married to make our lives easier. Just like Ray and I did in India.

We've had three days of walking: hard, harder, hardest. Could be the cumulative effect. I'm sure that's part of it, but honestly, day 1 for me wasn't too bad. Day2, hard steeper climbs, and a long downhill. I said I'd do the longer, harder downhill, but once I stared down, and we were told this was the harder but more beautiful way, straight down, I wasn't climbing back up only 10 feet that I'd just come down. No way. I was in for the ride.

My reward, an incredible old growth beech forest. My nemesis, my knees. I spent some time walking with a 76 year old woman. She's walking with her daughter and granddaughter. It was inspirational  walking for a short time with her.

We started SJPP, Regugio d'Orisson: day 1; day 2 - orisson to Roncevalles; today, Roncevalles to Zubiri!

I have no blisters so far, but after todays 820 meter downhill, my knees have had it. It was an all rocky downhill, with several previous steep but shorter than yesterday's climbs.

I wasn't expecting these uphills. I did run out of water about 2/3 of the way, but was saved by a stand selling drinks and snacks.

The evening is cool compated to the 80º heat that shattered us today. We started happy with a lovely woodland walk. Lots of woodland walks today. 91% on natural ground, but the downhill was brutal on us all.

We whined a bit about doing this, but later whe we'd had a litle rest, shower, nice room and drinks and a meal, we all think we've made a great decision.

We will see tomorrow as wewalk to Pamplona, the town of Hemingway's"The Sun Also Rises" and the running of the bulls. We will have 2 nights here, as we need to rest our bodies for another hard up and down the following day.

Now, a little drawing of our laundry and, "GOODNIGHT SWEET PRINCE."

CAMINO: Day 2, My new studio

Yes, this spoke to me on our walk today. The windows are small, but the worst was the roof on the other side was completely missing. Still, with time and money. . .

I was told years ago by an antiques dealer,"You are a resurector, not a restorer."

Camino: day 1

Didn't have a good nights sleep. Too early for me, then fell asleep, went to bathroom and snoring had me awake for a while. Alarm will go off in 10 minutes. Someone walking around below preparing breakfast. Paul just vaselined his feet, put on his socks and went to the toilet. Easying into today. I expect you are all asleep now.

For a couple of you who missed the address: prismatic-palette.blogspot.com is my blog .

To Trey, my trainer, you are coming halfway up the Pyrenees with me today.

On Jun 13, 2013 10:03 PM, "Dawson, Martin" <MDawson@megtec.com> wrote:

We just started the unit and are about to put a hot load on the chiller to see how it holds up. [10:05 pm your time 4:05 pm our time]

 

Love you

Martin

 

From: Debra Joyce Dawson [mailto:debrajoycedawson@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 3:53 PM
To: Dawson, Martin
Subject: Did u get the chiller

 

How's work?

Camino starts Tomorrow: Getting Ready for Bed

It's no talking in our room as of 10 minutes ago. Paul wants to sleep. You'll never guess. My chocos went off in my suitcase this morning. Then later, I bought a pair of sandals for me, and one for Monica. They are lighter, but maybe take up more space in my pack.

I've seen a lot if experienced guys with their boots tied outside their packs. If I need room, I'll hang the sandals on the outside tomorrow.

I still haven't tried getting 2 liters of water in the camelback with all this stuff already in the pack. It's all new to me.

Supposed to be 59 ○ tomorrow 85% humidity. Looked like it was clearing tonight, but not clear and sunny like it had been for the two days before this one. Could be spotty rain tomorrow, but as the man at the Pilgrim Office said, "Why worry, you can't change it."

Photo is of me standing at La Porte St. Jacques. If you entered St. Jean-Pied-de-Port from Paris or Le Puy, the would have entered the city through this gate. There is a steep decline down Rue de la Citadelle, past the eglise where we got our pilgrim blessing this evening, and a little farther on we leave through La Porte d'Espagne.

The four in this room are all walking tomorrow. Jess, Paul, Monica and me. Will post again when I can.

If you know anyone who is interested in reading this journey, you can go to prismatic-palette.blogspot.com and sign up to have posts come directly to your email inbox.

On Jun 13, 2013 9:11 PM, "Dawson, Martin" <MDawson@megtec.com> wrote:

We were at lunch and when we got back our wifi was out and it just came back on [9:10 pm your time] so I just got your email.

 

I assume you're going to get an early night and be ready for the early start.

 

Thinking about you

Love you

Martin

 

From: Debra Joyce Dawson [mailto:debrajoycedawson@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 3:01 PM
To: Dawson, Martin
Subject: You there?

 

They turn wifi off at 10pm. I didn't know that last night and tried for a long time to connect.

You maybe in transit?

Les roses

Maybe you prefer this?

It's all about pugs here!

Check out these prize hams from the Pays Basque!

Walking tomorrow

Once again, I have a new roommate. My first night, three women from Toulouse; last night Monica, Jess a student/backpacker from Canada, and Kim - a financial advisor from Delaware; tonight Monica, Jess and Paul. PAUL HAS ALREADY WALKED 700KM FROM LE PUY! HE SPEAKS ONLY FRENCH AND BETWEEN THE THRRE OF US, WE DO FINE. Like Monica and I, he walks to Orisson tomorrow, and if I understood him correctly ge gets up at 3am. He is my age, I'd say. And fit.

We will go tonight for a pilgrim's blessing at the church at 7 pm.

St. Jean-Pied-de-Port: 3rd morning

My daughter, Monica arrived last evening around 7:30 pm.

This morning we had some things to do: bank, walking stick for her, and first thing, we got our pilgrim passport. My suitcase has been whisked away by a baggage transport service, and will await me in Santiago.

Rain today, but not terrible rain. Kim is already halfway up the mountain.

St. JEAN-DE-LUZ: dinner

This region of France really does feel culturally different. I have tried to get the Basque cuisine when possible.

I don't have photo support fir the previous night dinner, but I had Paradillo aux 7 poissons. WHOA!!!! Stunning presentation in an elongated dish with pointy ends, hand painted.

On the left, a 2-1/2" dish of paella with a piece of smoky, spiced sausage. Then the line up if fish: cod was first, don't know the second or third, then a whole anchovy grilled, 3 mussels, a longustine. The suce was olive oil, maybe a little vinegar lots of large pieces of garlic, sweet red peppers. OMG! Lovely delicious meal. I was practically sitting in the lap of the couple next to me, so I didn't have courage to take a photo. But here'the outside of this small always crowded restaurant.

The other three photos are from my last nights dinner: Boudin Basque with a mashed potato cake, and thar's a little red onion smile on top. And a white Basque beer. Dessert: Tarte aux pommes fines maison. Martin would have loved this meal. My parents and grandparents would have loved it. I DID!

We got to have us a Basque Party!

Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP): My first way sign.

There it was not far from the bus ststion. You could just get off the bus and syart walking.

I didn't order my pilgrim passport while in the USA, and I'm not walking without that.

Of course I saw more way signs on my little hike into the old city. And here is the big one on the official door to the pilgrim office, where you get your passport and get your first stamp from SJPP.

ST. JEAN-DE-LUZ: last day

Sunset never happened the evening before, and the day started with rain. But it cleared and we had one of the best weather days of all my time here.

I thought I'd look at the boats again. I found a fisherman mending sails.

I decided to walk all the way to the bridge to the next ville, believe me, not far. I wanted to see this one fishing boat that docked all by itself. I took a photo, and what appeared was something I was very excited about. Two people on the quai in front of the boat working on the nets. They were there all day. Just look at all the net they had to look at!

I made some drawings in my book, and decided to make a pen, brush and ink drawing. I did two, in fact. I'd have dine more, but it was hot and I needed a toilette.

I stopped at a bar for a wine and a large carafe d'eau. Drank them both, went to the lu and went back to the room to see if I could get my Sweetie online from Chile! Technology, as irritating as it is, is superb when it works.

Oh, I did buy a new sketchbook/journal for The Camino. I've filled the two I'd brought from home. I picked Emerald Green as I think I am going on the yellow brick road to the Emerald City.

Great Day in St. Jean-de-Luz: evening

So my evening to that great day I was writing about was 3 days ago! Life away from wifi happens when the sun comes out.

After lunch and drawing, I walked to 'la plage'. I'd walked the promenade the night before and found a place to paint under cover, but it was sunny, so the cafes were open.

I began to see how a vacation with sun would work. Up late, since you've been out late, beach all day, or combined with a little shopping. Maybe lunch, if you didn't bring it. Back to rest and have a shower and dress so you can promenade before dinner, and then back to the beach for sunset.

On my walk to la plage, Ganesha revealed himself to me. He looked a little Tibetan to me, maybe traveling in disguise. Then lo and behold, an entire window of LEGOs! Fond memories of the many Legos I'd bought over the years for the grandsons!

Then the promenade, and yes, sun on skin, even if it was winding downat 5 o'clock. Still there it was. But most were leaving, so I figured to come back for sunset.

As I turned to find another interested, my heart was panic-striken with the site that appeared in the distance. The high peak of the Pyrenees that are visible from this ville. I'd only just seen the rest of them the evening before and such fear settled in my heart about myclimb over Pyrenees. I was sure the view I'd seen was the one I would walk, the profile was so very similar. But this peak said something different, just like my Sherpa had said.

Still, the terror had grabbed my heart, and I was reminded that I have done little exercise of these legs since Paris, only walking a few steos and standing all day to paint. Paris was a great training ground. I never took public transportation except 3 short trips by bus for a walk I could do in 15 - 20 minutes. Not complaining.

But now, two weeks of little. Yes Istill waljed, butno distances, and I stood for long periods, but no climbing ofany kind since St. Malo. Yikes.

Great day St. Jean-de-Luz

After fighting my boat painting while fielding questions in my most horrible French, I was tired and hungry. I'd missed my opportunity to see the Infanta's house at 2:30. Next time.

I thought I sit and find a place to paint the pollarded trees with Louis' house, but people were really coming out. Why? Sun, and Sunday.

I went to a cafe and was told I could only get a drink or dessert at that time. The young waiter spoke only English to me, and I'd answer in French. In the end he said he could get me just a Croque Monsieur, but only that. Fine with me.

Don't you love the Ricard bottle with the sun on both sides. Ricard is made in Marseille, one of those anise flavored liquers. In 1997, in Chartres, I met two couples while waiting for the train back to Paris. Oddly enough we were all staying in the same hotel in the Marais. We had dinner together the night, and breakfast the next morning. One of the men said I had to have Ricard when I got to Marseille. I did, and this bottle brought back lovely memories if these kind Irish travelers.

I sat for a long time writing and drawing in my journal, people watching. And finally, decided it was high time that I try a chocolat chaud. This one was an Italian one, flavored with orange. It was sort of thick, I ate it with a spoon, but not as thick as a pudding. Pretty yummy.

Great day St. Jean-De-Luz #2

Whew! Just look at the color of that water, looks like the Ganges. Really muddy from all the rain.

I had fun yesterday by the boats. A few of the fishermen most likely grew up like I did hearing their fathers say, "You'd better get down there and bail out your boat before it sinks." I could just feel my Dad here yesterday morning. I was so excited to watch the bwiling action. It'd been a long time since I'd done that.

I had to make a drawing in my book, and finally just had to paint it.

I had a lot of onlookers and several people asking if I sell my paintings. And one man from Paris with an apartment here in St. Jean-de-Luz talked to me for quite a while. We exchanged emails and gave him my website address. He said he only hangs paintings of this place in his apartment here. And if he ordered one, he'd want a large painting.

Great day in St. Jean-de-Luz

Yesterday was a marvelous day. You can see it started out grey, nothing wet falling, until I went out. I stopped for coffee and ordered the Viennoiserie. Turned out to be a mini croisant and a mini pain au chocolat, but they wete hot!!! Nice cafe creme with it.

Rain stopped, I started_in the direction if La Maisin de Linfante d'espagne. I was early, but the door was open, and of course I went in and climved two short flights of steps.

Eh, voila! An artist in his studio. I went in and we chatted a bit. His exhibition was all bulls, some realistic, my favorites were expressionistic. I asked if I could take his photo with his work. I didn't get a goid photo, but understand this, he had a huge space in an historic building from the 17th century. The coffered ceiling was all hand painted from that time. Three hugh arched windows that faced east to a view of the harbor and the Pyrenees in the distance. Hardwood floors. What would this cost? He had a captive audience of people coming to see the infanta's house one floor up, of course they all stopped hete for info and I am sure it led to sales.

His work was filled with emotion and power. Just like a bull. We exchanged emails, and talked a little about art, and the fact that the sky was now blue!

Great start to my day. More later. No rain right now, so got the painting bag packed and heading out.