There are actually some pretty interesting tombs in this abbey. They are early, like this guy. I'm going to look him up when I get home. Maybe Françoise or Natalie know him?
Most of the effigies are in low relief, but the was one woman, not named anywhere, that must had had some importance, or money and influence because her effigy was something I've not seen in my travels.
Actually, there were 5 of them, but I've only met one. His name, Bobby Weiss, an artist! He is here for six weeks with the MICA residence. The 5 had an exhibition, but I had already missed it. He speaks no French, but has the ladies in the monastery office taking good care of him, and they speak English!
Here is his website: http://www.robertweissworks.com
I have yet to see it because WIFI is so iffy. One last thing, he looks cool and collected, and I am sweaty with hat hair!
Wifi is so slow that I have blogs backed up. But tomorrow, I pick up my car. Will write/send when I can.
Actually, there were 5 of them, but I've only met one. His name, Bobby Weiss, an artist! He is here for six weeks with the MICA residence. The 5 had an exhibition, but I had already missed it. He speaks no French, but has the ladies in the monastery office taking good care of him, and they speak English!
Here is his website: http://www.robertweissworks.com
I have yet to see it because WIFI is so iffy. One last thing, he looks cool and collected, and I am sweaty with hat hair!
The site is lovely, and interesting. The huge old yew tree, symbol of everlasting life, cause you could cut it down to a stump and it grows back, was a welcome and inspiring site.
Just next to it, a large garden of plants used for healing. They were all labeled with what the herbalist monk, like Cadfael, if you know that show with Derek Jacob (spelling), would use the plant to cure or alliviate symptoms. Loved that. And then came the very impressive artichokes in bloom! I've never seen that before. A color so vibrant, a flower so huge, and the honey bees we're deep down inside the petals.
I continued on the road until I came to a couple on a bench. The young man looked hot and tired. They'd just come up the path from Léhon. He told me the way, and off I went into the wooded path, immediately down a steep rocky slope. It leveled out a little, but it was all downhill for quite a while. Then, along the river, I got my first view of the monastary and excitement arose within me. I took photos, and kept walking as directed, toward the bridge. But, I came to an interesting spot, where I thought I'd sit (two blocks of stone placed auspiciously there for me), and I painted.
I was pretty happy when two men of the cloth walked by and said, "Bonsoir Madame."
I am sure that this would be a great painting. Bamboo shaped by wind, I expect, and a little house. I wanted to paint, but had no conception how far I'd come, or if the 2km was this detour road, and where it would all end.
The uphill through the forest ended here, at Ollivier's place, complete with crowing rooster, along a modern roadway
Can I just say that there are so many Brits here that my immersion is being interrupted. Also interrupted by typing in English. I am confused language wise.
So, I walk along as I was directed, and finally come to a fantastic large Gite for rent complete with white fence and roses. (Susie, I have the info.)
Howvever, my contact didn't say there was a detour because fallen rock had blocked the road. Of course, that could have happened centuries ago. The detour was straight uphill beside this Gite. I felt I was back at the Sanctuary, and back on the Camino with my backpack.
Well, 2 more paintings. 6x8's and they feel so small after the sizes that I did in the forest. But, the nature of this luggage game was weight. The bulk of the panels I brought are 6x8's. And equal amount of 6x6 and 9x12" (not my favorite ratio ). And about 7 or 8 8x10's. I used 4 of the 8x10's already, so today was my time to change sizes. I begin to see that I miss the bigger panels. Susie, you are laughing at me now. And yes, I will miss my navigator extraordinaire! We are a superlative team on the road.
So, I didn't sleep well last night. Why? Mostly, I never get to bed before midnight. Not sure how that happens, but it just seems natural.
I made a mushroom and onion omelette for breakfast, had most of my painting gear ready last night, and went off in search of café. Only the boulangerie was open. I ordered a coffee and asked if I could walk to Léhon, une Citié de Caractère. "Oui! Just 2km." So, after my first 8x6" painting, off I went aux bords de Rance.
I was feeling a bit "walled in" like Dinan, so I thought, ah, walk along the river and see what's there. Lots of gorgeous natural views, and it was a cloudless gorgeous day, hot, but I spent most of it in the shade.
Here it is! An vielle femme, prés de moi, a commandé cette dessert. Plus tard, je doit commander aussi!
I struggled with a painting this morning at a crêperie called Ty Coz. It was raining this morning, and when it stopped, I went out with all my artistic stuff.
I decided to paint from the comfort of a cafe, and so started my day with two large café créme, one after the other. The light change after my block in, and I had to adjust the values. The cafe got quite busy around me, free entertainment. No one spoke to me, but everyone sat behind me! I was focused, and just tried to build my painting.
After, I had to have lunch, or was it my breakfast? Un galette St. Jacques, followed by the Colonel! My friend, Meg, introduced me to this: lemon sorbet with vodka! This was the best I've had since the one I had with her on l'Île de Ré in 2006.
There were two men having muscles here. One reminded me of Stanley Tucci, so I made a quick sketch, which doesn't really look like Tucci, but serves as a memory for me of my time here today.
The jury is out on my painting. I will have to look when I get home. But, this restaurant was very accommodating to me. I thank them very much.
Lovely to hear the church bells this morning as I sat and drank my café crème. It's really one of my favorite things about Europe.
The photos were taken yesterday, July 4th, when I wandered into l'Église St. Malo. Just as I rounded the corner and viewed the scene in the first photo, the organ blasted out! Wow! There is nothing better than to feel the air vibrating around you, through you, from the power of an organ blast!!!!
I lit a candle for those who have passed on, as I always do, and for Françoise, my fantastic French teacher and friend. I love the way the camera captured the heat and light coming off the candles.
Un grand crème á côté du port. I needed it. It rained very early this morning, but by 9am, it stopped so I gathered everything and looked for a cafe with an awning. I opened my easel, with all fresh paint put out yesterday, eh voila! The white, the lemon yellow, the cad red light all had gone on walk-about!
I laid out paint this morning, all brand new tubes of Utrecht paint. I went to squeeze out the cad red light, and oil just dripped out. After letting it drip onto a paper towel, I tried putting it out again and it sort of spit red oil all over its cad yellow light neighbor. I figured it would travel, and the oil did flow into the lemon yellow and the white! Whew!
But a bigger problem is the rotating head on the lightweight tripod. It's not holding very well. So far, I am dealing with it, and it's just an aggravation. But, this is day ONLY one of painting.
One other problem is the area around my pointer finger and thumb of my left hand. I think it's tendinitis, started at the end of the second week of the Sanctuary Residency.
Yesterday, after Jeanne et Jacque left me, I unpacked and organized my things. I took only a lightweight backpack, watercolors, ink, sketchbook and watercolor paper that I'd purchased in Paris in 2013. I walked until I came to the first road to the top. There were so many paintings on the uphill route to do, but I took only photos. Once again, I was very near where I started my time in Dinan, the huge old clock tower. After meandering my way around the walled medieval part of Dinan, I came back down to the port by the switchback route.
I didn't think the hill up was bad at all, but today, I heard many people huffing and puffing as they made the climb.
I went there to paint the green table and chair I'd seen yesterday, but, it wasn't there. DRATS! Had I missed it? Was it higher up? Who cared? Just a few feet forward was a second charming scene, an old lavabo on a stand. In the center of the white washing bowl was a light blue coffee pot, and in the pot, a plant. At its feet, a large terra cotta pot with a hydrangea just starting to bloom. I knew I wanted to paint it, too. So I stopped and made a drawing for a 10x8" painting.
As soon as I started, a woman came to talk to me. Her name, Michelle. She was also an artist. I mentioned the green chair. It was hers! She quickly put it out with the green table, and I thought that I'd do two paintings, one after the other, but, she had me in for coffee and chocolate, and by the time I finished painting #1, I was tired. Jet lag, and heat, I think. I was certainly glad I stood in the shade.
I wish I had 100€ for each photo that was taken of me today. Personally, I asked three people to take a photo with my phone, since they had the enjoyment of using me for their pleasure!
Tomorrow, I go back to paint the table and chair. Add this to my 6x6" painting of a blue watering can on a green table that I did in Giverny last September, and I am building a suite of paintings of items that I would love to own and have in my own garden. I suppose the white porch furniture painted at the first residency, would also fit in this suite, but they aren't French.
I came back to Cafe Terrasses, where I met the Belgians, and had Moules à la crème. Rich, but very good. A tourist from Switzerland grilled me in French, expecting me to be English. She told me I would gain kilos if I ate this everyday. And then told me I must go to the next village, which I will, when I rent my car on July 9th. Wish me luck on driving in France alone.
I had to take this photo of my dinner last night because of the attached barnacles. We had them on our rowboat when I was a kid, we ordered them in Finisterre, in Spain (well, my daughter did), but I've never had them come to me on mussel shells. I liked it. The mussels I've had in France are small and with a mild flavor. I like them very much.
Dinner was great. To the right of me we're 3 Germans, parents and son. To my left, well, I wasn't sure. The young man spoke very good French. One of the two young women was speaking, I wasn't sure what, but at times it sounded like French. I thought maybe it was the real Breton accent. So after some white wine and dinner, I asked them in French if they were from the same country. They were. And that question led to an all night conversation with Belgians lasting until we were told it was closing time. Two sisters 24 and 30, and their friend, 26.
Christof took a photo with his camera to show off his stick. I do hope he sends it. We have all vowed to meet in Ohio or Antwerpt, where they live.
As I made my way home, I stopped to look at the nocturne before me. It was pretty chilly, but there she was, rising above the tree line, Sister Moon, in all her glory, lighting my path, and exposing my smile in it's glow.
Here it is, my first cafe creme. It had better be good, I need it.
Had a great day yesterday, walking through the Port de Dinan, and up the cobbled street that must be the one mentioned to me as cardiac hill! It didn't seem too bad. There was much to see and stop to photograph. The street actually reminded me of the medieval cobbled road through Saint Jean Pied-de-Port, where both sides slope down to drain from the low point in the middle of the road. The main difference was in the mood. Here in Dinan, it seemed more colorful. Of course that could have been my internal fears of starting the long climb up and over the Pyrenees. Now, I am on my way to paint. But, I needed coffee. I had a late night, last night, with three young Belgians!
Here are my bags, waiting by the entrance to Hotel de LA Tour de l'Horlage. The ladies will meet me at 10:30, about 8 minutes.
I had an unexpected large petite déjeurne this morning, then made a quick drawing from my window before going out to the market.
What is not to like about the markets? Business is brisk, people come to shop and the produce is magnificent! Never have I seen artichokes
My residency begins proper today. The ladies are meeting me here at 10:30am. Until then, I will amuse myself at the Tuesday market, right outside this hotel!
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