July 19, Le Port de Dinan: Fantastic Day!

Yep, today was just a fun day. I had a visit last night from two of my contacts. They mentioned that there would be a "big goings on" on the Rance today. I decided last night that I would stay here all day. I did just that, but I didn't know what was in store for me.

The event was scheduled from 9am - 7pm. The 13èmes JOUTES NAUTIQUES. Yep, that's right. It's like jousting on water. Your steed is a wooden boat with a team of 6 rowers, a captain controlling the rudder while yelling "row, row, row", and the jouter (?), standing on a raised platform at the back of the boat. So much easier to show a photo.

Dinan: à côté de ma maison, Saturday, July 18

Just across the road is an, hum, auberge(?) for those who are walking, kayaking, rafting along the Rance River. It's filled with lots of colorful umbrellas, one might almost think that one was at the beach or in America. At times this restaurant/hotel has been very animated with people and children, but, it's also been really quiet.

Today, frustrated after working on a 6x8" painting - for hours - along The Rance River Valley Circuit drive, and returning home before the museum lady moves her car from my drive, I decided to just park across the street in this establishment. So I was committed to order something.

It was 4:20pm, so I had something to eat: steak, frites and salad, and cidre. Then I decided to really drown my mood, and have ice cream.

Let me say, the ice cream is something to write home about. I ordered one of their concoctions of two flavors, pistachio (with toasted California pistachios), and cherry. It came with a cherry flavored macaron, and 4 or 5 mountains of chantilly, whipped cream.

I hardly ever eat whipped cream, but it was a favorite of my sister. When she was on chemo, sometimes we would go out, and she'd order just a bowl of whipped cream. But, oh the chantilly here in France is so creamy! Edie Dean, you would love it. I ate maybe two mountains of it, covered in toasted almonds, and three boules du glaces! Ugh!

How will I get across the street? I hope the late in the day café will help me. Drugged on cidre et sucre!

Dinan drive along the Rance River Valley: St. Suriac, July 16

I stayed home today until 2:30pm. Once I'd talked with my contact, I headed out on the driving tour of the towns around the Rance River. I swear, I cannot make the road numbers on the map match what is on the roundabout signs. Even the Garmen gets confused at times, but if I follow it long enough, I get there. But, at times, the Garmin can't find a village or town I type in, so, I went with the Green Guide and followed as best I could.

I missed some turns, but that is normal. But, I found my way to St. Suriac, which was an old granite fishing village. It's small and lovely, and I was lucky to see the beach at low tide. I decided I had to paint it. Just 6x8" on a linen panel, but it's my favorite painting that I've done so far, informed by the 9x12" painting done at low tide in Cancale. The scene had different colors, it was a sunny afternnon, and the beach was filled with sunbathers and kids.

There was a young boy on the beach, dressed in black beach duds and carrying an orange bucket. He was busy for a very long time going between patches of seaweed, searching for something. When he found it, it went into his bucket. There were also a few beached boats, one with a jewel-like green bottom. Other than the two strong colors, the scene was devoid of strong color. Everything was subtle nuances of tone.

Dinan: Presentation of Paintings & Cancale, July 15

July 25, 2105 - 18hr00!

My presentation will be early since a couple of the organizers are going on vacation the last week of July. They will come in a group, look, ask me questions, I suppose, and choose a painting.

I feel a bit nervous. Still I will have a tour of Brittany in the studio when they come, and another five days worth of paintings after they choose.

Attached is a photo from Cancale, where Sargent painted his "Oyster Gathers". I found low tide here different from that at Roscoff, but no less interesting.

I think I could paint low tide and landlocked boats for a very long time. The wet sand, or is it mud, or sludge, reflects each and every nuance of light, changing every few seconds, it seems. Lovely, maddening, delicate, difficult. But I think it's one of the most interesting and challenging subjects that I've painted. How to translate it sensitively? Yet, it's in this subject that I seem to have found myself.

Funny, one of the guys at the Highlands Nature Sanctuary Residency said, "You really look at things, you notice things." I thought that was a strange comment, but he's right. And it gets me in trouble at times, seeing so much, too much.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, painting near finish

I have to say, I was in a high profile spot, and had done a bit of walking, at first in a steady, soft rain. I tried to figure a way of painting while it was raining, all the values were softened and the atmosphere added to the mystery of the site. But, the spot I wanted to paint from was pretty near a well traveled road, and I would have blocked the footpath.

When I got to the second set of stones, the stones were larger. I read that Neolithic man had actually broken some of the stones, why??? I walked all around the perimeter of the 950 stones and said to myself, "you have to paint these." After all, we were having a dialogue.

The fallen stones were so huge, that I was reminded of beached whales. People are prevented from walking among the stones because the death of the plants exposes the soil, the soil erodes and exposes the base of the stones. Then, there is danger that the stones will topple over. Can't imagine what that sounds and feels like.

With a guide, you can get access, or if you go between October and April some of the gates are open and you can walk in and on the little footpaths.

The rain had stopped and I set up and painted relatively uninterrupted. Near the end of the painting a nice man asked if he could take photos of me. I said yes if he'd take some with my camera.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, painting the Keraleon Group

From Carnac, there are three massive groups of stones, arranged in rows. I got quite excited, as I always do, by the large stones. Here's the start of my 9x12" painting.

Dinan to Carnac: Friday, July 17, les Menhirs

One hundred years before Stonehenge, these prehistoric megaliths were the first architectural project in Western Europe. I wonder, who was in charge, and how did they 'inspire' these early people to move all these stones? And of course, what was their purpose?

Rance River Valley #2, July 16th, Thursday

I am not quite sure what could be more creepy than walking along a deserted stretch of beach, by myself, with the sun low in the sky and coming to this. I finally found the boat cemetery, a collection of mostly wooden boats, rotting away in the water in various stages of decay, with a backdrop of brand spanking new boats. I love boats, next to being a monk, I am sure I was a sailor at some point, but honestly, this creeped me out. Maybe it was just the memory of "Jaws", or the fact that I was all alone in this place, or possibly, the thought of the dead body that had been found in the creek during the forest residency.

I would like to go back here and paint all day, but time will tell.

Dinan to Dinard: Le 14 Juillet

Finally made it to Dinard. Attempted two paintings of these tents! Paying for parking on the street had me leaving before I finished either.

Dinan to Roscoff: July 11& 12

I lost two days of photos by leaving my camera at home. I plan to go back to Roscoff before I turn in my car on the 24th. Could kick myself.

I checked into a 29€ room with just a sink and douche. Worked for me. It was clean, douche worked, great soap and towels. What more could I want?

A camera. Room #29 L'Hotel d'Angleterre.

Dinan: Le Port last night, July 13

Fireworks last night, and mobs of people.

All classical music accompanied an amazing 45 minutes of feu d'artifice!!!!

Gobs and gobs of people.

Dinan to Josselin, July 11: the newer side of the Château

Need I say more?

Dinan to Josselin: July 11, Château de Rohan

Of course, the 1538 house is not the oldest thing in town. The Château de Rohan in all it's present day splendor, has it's beginning as a 14c fort, with four round towers, two of which form the medieval side of the château. A third tower is on site but the walls were dismantled during the French Revolution. The fourth tower no longer exists, but a 100 year old massive juniper (?) tree takes it's place and is every bit as large as the tower would have been.

BTW, during the Revolution the freestanding tower was used as a prison, housing 250 prisoners.

Forgive any facts here that might not be totally accurate. Do the research if you are interested.

Dinan to Josselin: July 11, this old house

The oldest recorded house still standing in the village is a delight to behold. It's a half-timbered structure with a roof of slate featuring a beautiful example of "pan-de-bois". The carvings are of a chase scene with animals and mythical creatures overhead. Flanking the door are carvings, most likely of the first owners of the house, and the year 1538 carved over the man's head.

The house is still lived in. I've always wondered what it must be like to live alongside history of this kind, to be it's caretaker for a while.

Saturday, July 11: Drive to Josselin, or how I got into the Tour de France!

Well, it started out calm. Then on my way to Josselin, on the D766, I began to comprehend a sign I passed saying the Tour de France would be traveling on this road at a certain time.

I realized this when I passed a hay roll hoisted in the air by a tractor, with a dummy on a bicycle on top!

Then I noticed all the cars and people on the sides of the road. I had to stop for a photo of that dummy on a bike. I asked what time the cyclists were coming by. Not for 2-1/2 hours. I thought about staying. I saw the police put up large plastic barriers just after I returned to my car. I thought, should I stay? But in the end, I decided to get on with my day.

The farther forward that I went on the D766, the thicker the crowds got. I just kept driving. BTW, Europcar rented me the official car of the tour! People kind of looked at me oddly, I was the only car on the road. But, no one stopped me.

Not until I was almost in a town. Every time the Garmen tried to reroute me, the road was barricated, so I just continued.

Finally, a gendarme stopped me. He asked where I was going. "Josselin," was my reply. He pointed to a barricaded road filled with people. He told them to move, and to open the gate. He pointed, and said go left, left again and follow signs for Vannes!

I was very greatful, I might have been run down by the pack, causing an international incident. But really, what are the odds of me finding the one road in France that The Tour was traveling on today, at that time?

Friday, July 10: Dinan to Cap Fréhel

Starting my day with a drive to a peninsula on the Emerald Coast. Everyone mentioned Cap Fréhel, so it is today's first stop. The sun is brilliant again, but it's chilly. What it will be when I get to the coast???

Last night, I had to wash my lightweight fleece (taken on the Camino) because it, and my purse, were all covered in green paint. It's still a bit wet this AM, so here's hoping that it dries before I get there.

Oops, Madame Béatrice!

A one woman band. Amazing!

Dinan, July 8th, Madame Béatrice!

Elle est extraordinaire!

Dinan: Thursday, July 9- the car!

Oh boy! The thought of the car kept me awake. To start. When I want to try to contact Martin, I have to walk to the other side of the Rance River, then, I have to wait until I think he's available. And while I'm using the WIFI at the Mercure - was the Best Western until 10 months ago - I have to order something.

Now, if it's late, people are back in their rooms, and the signal isn't good. So, I write to you, and try to send it. Such is the state of WIFI in France, America. I'm sure it's good for those that live or work here, right?

Now, today I went to the Thursday marché for lettuce, tomatoes and apricots. Not much, but all I had time for. It's a 40 minute walk to the Europcar place.

Did I mention that I walked 8 miles two days ago, and did two paintings. Yesterday, about 5 miles. Today, already 4 miles.

So driving seems like a cop out of sorts. Still, I can't walk to Roscoff or Carnac without a lot of time. So, I got the car. A standard shift. Martin advised I take a few short trips. I felt if I got in, drove away and could make my way back to my little house, that would be something. And it was. I got directions on how to go, on a map from the lady renting the car. I was fine except just as I was supposed to get to my turn to go under the aquaduct, the road was closed. I made a turn that I shouldn't have, and had to turn around, then went back and somehow found the detour signs, right through the streets I walked on yesterday! So glad that I've been walking around the old city everyday.

I got home, unpacked my vegetables, packed the oils in the car and headed in the direction of the small towns along the Rance, direction, St. Malo. I decided after a bit, to head back to Léhon and paint at the abbey. The sun was brilliant, but a cool wind had me in my jacket all day. Cooler in the wind, even more so in the shade with wind. I decided to paint the gardens in the cloisters, as the abbey grounds had just closed.

Not only a 8x6" struggle with paint and brush, but the people were all over me a few at a time. I must admit, it was not beneficial to my painting, or my concentration. They came a couple, or a few at a time, and no sooner did they leave, the next 2 to 4 would arrive.

After 1-1/2 hrs., I started to just hand them my brushes. Not many were polite about disturbing me, getting just behind me to take a photo, or just stand to see what I would do next. They never ever ask if they can take a photo of me or my work.

Before I got really irritated, I asked a woman who had just taken my photo to take one of me.

I bought a ticket for €4, and toured the museum, and then just outside the door was a great scene with apple trees in front of abbey buildings, contre jour.

I got up close and personal with the scene I'd painted the day that I walked to Léhon. The wildflower section near the ruins was stunning. I spent quite a long time with it.

Then, the return drive. Gosh, Léhon really is very close. I stopped at the parking for the castle, climbed the steps and there was the TI. I thought I was in Léhon, but it was Dinan!

The young woman that helped me with the car, told me on a map how to get back home. Seems the detour I took this morning is just for residents. My way was much longer involving rush hour traffic and missed roads, but I made it!

Dinan, July 8, Wednesday - waiting for the harp concert

Two painting today! Interesting that my 12x9" morning painting window went from sun to shade; and my afternoon 6x6" went from grey skies that looked like threat of rain to glorious sun, just in time to have dinner before the outdoor opening to the 4-day Celtic Harp Festival.

My post from July 7th didn't go through, so cut one of the photos. Hope this makes it.

Léhon Abbaye: relic

Eh voila! Whose thigh bone it is ????

Léhon Abbaye: tombs con't.

Her effigy was unique because the body was in low relief, while the head was in high relief.

I know, I know, and you know, that I couldn't let you get away without sharing my interest in the religious aspect, but, this is also art of the times.

I had to draw her in my book, twice.

Léhon Abbaye: tombs

There are actually some pretty interesting tombs in this abbey. They are early, like this guy. I'm going to look him up when I get home. Maybe Françoise or Natalie know him?

Most of the effigies are in low relief, but the was one woman, not named anywhere, that must had had some importance, or money and influence because her effigy was something I've not seen in my travels.

An American in Léhon

Actually, there were 5 of them, but I've only met one. His name, Bobby Weiss, an artist! He is here for six weeks with the MICA residence. The 5 had an exhibition, but I had already missed it. He speaks no French, but has the ladies in the monastery office taking good care of him, and they speak English!

Here is his website: http://www.robertweissworks.com

I have yet to see it because WIFI is so iffy. One last thing, he looks cool and collected, and I am sweaty with hat hair!

Wifi

Wifi is so slow that I have blogs backed up. But tomorrow, I pick up my car. Will write/send when I can.

Léhon Abbaye: Nave and Cloisters

An American in Léhon

Actually, there were 5 of them, but I've only met one. His name, Bobby Weiss, an artist! He is here for six weeks with the MICA residence. The 5 had an exhibition, but I had already missed it. He speaks no French, but has the ladies in the monastery office taking good care of him, and they speak English!

Here is his website: http://www.robertweissworks.com

I have yet to see it because WIFI is so iffy. One last thing, he looks cool and collected, and I am sweaty with hat hair!

Monastary #1

The site is lovely, and interesting. The huge old yew tree, symbol of everlasting life, cause you could cut it down to a stump and it grows back, was a welcome and inspiring site.

Just next to it, a large garden of plants used for healing. They were all labeled with what the herbalist monk, like Cadfael, if you know that show with Derek Jacob (spelling), would use the plant to cure or alliviate symptoms. Loved that. And then came the very impressive artichokes in bloom! I've never seen that before. A color so vibrant, a flower so huge, and the honey bees we're deep down inside the petals.

Road to Léhon #5?

I continued on the road until I came to a couple on a bench. The young man looked hot and tired. They'd just come up the path from Léhon. He told me the way, and off I went into the wooded path, immediately down a steep rocky slope. It leveled out a little, but it was all downhill for quite a while. Then, along the river, I got my first view of the monastary and excitement arose within me. I took photos, and kept walking as directed, toward the bridge. But, I came to an interesting spot, where I thought I'd sit (two blocks of stone placed auspiciously there for me), and I painted.

I was pretty happy when two men of the cloth walked by and said, "Bonsoir Madame."

Road to Léhon, #3

I am sure that this would be a great painting. Bamboo shaped by wind, I expect, and a little house. I wanted to paint, but had no conception how far I'd come, or if the 2km was this detour road, and where it would all end.

The uphill through the forest ended here, at Ollivier's place, complete with crowing rooster, along a modern roadway

Road to Léhon, #2

But, the forest looks different here. I love the mossy rocks and giant ferns.

On the way to Léhon, July 6th, Monday

Can I just say that there are so many Brits here that my immersion is being interrupted. Also interrupted by typing in English. I am confused language wise.

So, I walk along as I was directed, and finally come to a fantastic large Gite for rent complete with white fence and roses. (Susie, I have the info.)

Howvever, my contact didn't say there was a detour because fallen rock had blocked the road. Of course, that could have happened centuries ago. The detour was straight uphill beside this Gite. I felt I was back at the Sanctuary, and back on the Camino with my backpack.

What to say today, July 6, Monday

Well, 2 more paintings. 6x8's and they feel so small after the sizes that I did in the forest. But, the nature of this luggage game was weight. The bulk of the panels I brought are 6x8's. And equal amount of 6x6 and 9x12" (not my favorite ratio ). And about 7 or 8 8x10's. I used 4 of the 8x10's already, so today was my time to change sizes. I begin to see that I miss the bigger panels. Susie, you are laughing at me now. And yes, I will miss my navigator extraordinaire! We are a superlative team on the road.

So, I didn't sleep well last night. Why? Mostly, I never get to bed before midnight. Not sure how that happens, but it just seems natural.

I made a mushroom and onion omelette for breakfast, had most of my painting gear ready last night, and went off in search of café. Only the boulangerie was open. I ordered a coffee and asked if I could walk to Léhon, une Citié de Caractère. "Oui! Just 2km." So, after my first 8x6" painting, off I went aux bords de Rance.

I was feeling a bit "walled in" like Dinan, so I thought, ah, walk along the river and see what's there. Lots of gorgeous natural views, and it was a cloudless gorgeous day, hot, but I spent most of it in the shade.

Le Colonnel et d'etre choses!

Here it is! An vielle femme, prés de moi, a  commandé  cette  dessert. Plus tard,  je  doit commander aussi!

I struggled with a painting this morning at a crêperie called Ty Coz. It was raining this morning, and when it stopped, I went out with all my artistic stuff.

I decided to paint from the comfort of a cafe, and so started my day with two large café créme, one after the other. The light change after my block in, and I had to adjust the values. The cafe got quite busy around me, free entertainment. No one spoke to me, but everyone sat behind me! I was focused, and just tried to build my painting.

After, I had to have lunch, or was it my breakfast? Un galette St. Jacques, followed by the Colonel! My friend, Meg, introduced me to this: lemon sorbet with vodka! This was the best I've had since the one I had with her on l'Île de Ré in 2006.

There were two men having muscles here. One reminded me of Stanley Tucci, so I made a quick sketch, which doesn't really look like Tucci, but serves as a memory for me of my time here today.

The jury is out on my painting. I will have to look when I get home. But, this restaurant was very accommodating to me. I thank them very much.

Dinan: July 5th, church bells &

Lovely to hear the church bells this morning as I sat and drank my café crème. It's really one of my favorite things about Europe.

The photos were taken yesterday, July 4th, when I wandered into l'Église St. Malo. Just as I rounded the corner and viewed the scene in the first photo, the organ blasted out! Wow! There is nothing better than to feel the air vibrating around you, through you, from the power of an organ blast!!!!

I lit a candle for those who have passed on, as I always do, and for Françoise, my fantastic French teacher and friend. I love the way the camera captured the heat and light coming off the candles.

Le Port de Dinan: July 5th, le matin

Un grand crème á côté du port. I needed it. It rained very early this morning, but by 9am, it stopped so I gathered everything and looked for a cafe with an awning. I opened my easel, with all fresh paint put out yesterday, eh voila! The white, the lemon yellow, the cad red light all had gone on walk-about!

Dinan, July 3: painting issues

I laid out paint this morning, all brand new tubes of Utrecht paint. I went to squeeze out the cad red light, and oil just dripped out. After letting it drip onto a paper towel, I tried putting it out again and it sort of spit red oil all over its cad yellow light neighbor. I figured it would travel, and the oil did flow into the lemon yellow and the white! Whew!

But a bigger problem is the rotating head on the lightweight tripod. It's not holding very well. So far, I am dealing with it, and it's just an aggravation. But, this is day ONLY one of painting.

One other problem is the area around my pointer finger and thumb of my left hand. I think it's tendinitis, started at the end of the second week of the Sanctuary Residency.

My first oil painting in Dinan, Friday, July 3rd

Yesterday, after Jeanne et Jacque left me, I unpacked and organized my things. I took only a lightweight backpack, watercolors, ink, sketchbook and watercolor paper that I'd purchased in Paris in 2013. I walked until I came to the first road to the top. There were so many paintings on the uphill route to do, but I took only photos. Once again, I was very near where I started my time in Dinan, the huge old clock tower. After meandering my way around the walled medieval part of Dinan, I came back down to the port by the switchback route.

I didn't think the hill up was bad at all, but today, I heard many people huffing and puffing as they made the climb.

I went there to paint the green table and chair I'd seen yesterday, but, it wasn't there. DRATS! Had I missed it? Was it higher up? Who cared? Just a few feet forward was a second charming scene, an old lavabo on a stand. In the center of the white washing bowl was a light blue coffee pot, and in the pot, a plant. At its feet, a large terra cotta pot with a hydrangea just starting to bloom. I knew I wanted to paint it, too. So I stopped and made a drawing for a 10x8" painting.

As soon as I started, a woman came to talk to me. Her name, Michelle. She was also an artist. I mentioned the green chair. It was hers! She quickly put it out with the green table, and I thought that I'd do two paintings, one after the other, but, she had me in for coffee and chocolate, and by the time I finished painting #1, I was tired. Jet lag, and heat, I think. I was certainly glad I stood in the shade.

I wish I had 100€ for each photo that was taken of me today. Personally, I asked three people to take a photo with my phone, since they had the enjoyment of using me for their pleasure!

Tomorrow, I go back to paint the table and chair. Add this to my 6x6" painting of a blue watering can on a green table that I did in Giverny last September, and I am building a suite of paintings of items that I would love to own and have in my own garden. I suppose the white porch furniture painted at the first residency, would also fit in this suite, but they aren't French.

I came back to Cafe Terrasses, where I met the Belgians, and had Moules à la crème. Rich, but very good. A tourist from Switzerland grilled me in French, expecting me to be English. She told me I would gain kilos if I ate this everyday. And then told me I must go to the next village, which I will, when I rent my car on July 9th. Wish me luck on driving in France alone.

It started with mussels!

I had to take this photo of my dinner last night because of the attached barnacles. We had them on our rowboat when I was a kid, we ordered them in Finisterre, in Spain (well, my daughter did), but I've never had them come to me on mussel shells. I liked it. The mussels I've had in France are small and with a mild flavor. I like them very much.

Dinner was great. To the right of me we're 3 Germans, parents and son. To my left, well, I wasn't sure. The young man spoke very good French. One of the two young women was speaking, I wasn't sure what, but at times it sounded like French. I thought maybe it was the real Breton accent. So after some white wine and dinner, I asked them in French if they were from the same country. They were. And that question led to an all night conversation with Belgians lasting until we were told it was closing time. Two sisters 24 and 30, and their friend, 26.

Christof took a photo with his camera to show off his stick. I do hope he sends it. We have all vowed to meet in Ohio or Antwerpt, where they live.

As I made my way home, I stopped to look at the nocturne before me. It was pretty chilly, but there she was, rising above the tree line, Sister Moon, in all her glory, lighting my path, and exposing my smile in it's glow.

Café Crême: July 3, Friday Noon

Here it is, my first cafe creme. It had better be good, I need it.

Had a great day yesterday, walking through the Port de Dinan, and up the cobbled street that must be the one mentioned to me as cardiac hill! It didn't seem too bad. There was much to see and stop to photograph. The street actually reminded me of the medieval cobbled road through Saint Jean Pied-de-Port, where both sides slope down to drain from the low point in the middle of the road. The main difference was in the mood. Here in Dinan, it seemed more colorful. Of course that could have been my internal fears of starting the long climb up and over the Pyrenees. Now, I am on my way to paint. But, I needed coffee. I had a late night, last night, with three young Belgians!

Mrs Baggages

Here are my bags, waiting by the entrance to Hotel de LA Tour de l'Horlage. The ladies will meet me at 10:30, about 8 minutes.

I had an unexpected large petite déjeurne this morning, then made a quick drawing from my window before going out to the market.

What is not to like about the markets? Business is brisk, people come to shop and the produce is magnificent! Never have I seen artichokes

Market Day & Residency

My residency begins proper today. The ladies are meeting me here at 10:30am. Until then, I will amuse myself at the Tuesday market, right outside this hotel!

View from #12, Hotel de LA Tour de l'Horlage

"J'ai fair un circuit" of my immediate surroundings in the old village, had dinner and found myself nodding off, so I went to #12. I love the view from my window, wanted to make a drawing, but I fell into a much needed deep sleep.